The forest calls each and every one of us, but only a certain few can hear the calls. After travelling to the northern part of Bengal I was busy with my study but I know that I have a bad habit of wanderlust. It can’t let me stay in a routine bound life. At the end of Oct 2018, I became restless because I was feeling that someone continuously whispering in my ears that “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” So I had opened my travel diary to search which places I can do this winter. There were a lot of options with me so I was a little bit confused.
It was 15 November I was searching for different tourist spot to travel in the winter vacation. Suddenly my phone beeped and when I unlocked the phone I saw it was Rudra asking for a short trip after semester. So when I asked for the place he told southern part of Bengal. And I understood what he wanted to mean. It’s the mysterious Mangrove -Sundarbans. It was the first tourist spot written in my diary, I had planned to visit the place before but always I had to face some problems. But this time I didn’t want to miss the chance again so agreed instantly and started our planning. We contacted the travel guide and collected the information. According to them a team of 4-5 person is better. So we formed a group of 4 people…. Ayan, Koushik, Rudra, and me. For last one week, we were discussing how to make the trip memorable so that when I’m in a vacant or pensive mood this memory can flash upon the inward eye and make my heart fills with pleasure.
07/12/2018
We started our journey on 7th December. We all met at Sealdah station. Our tour guide was waiting for us at the station. It was a package trip of 15 persons and us 4 were included with it. We boarded Canning local at 8:30 am and reached at Canning on 10 o’clock. Outside the station, we have seen a big signboard telling snake bite help lines. It signifies the terror of snakes in the local people.
The auto-rickshaw were there outside the station. Auto-rickshaw is one of the most important transport systems here. From Canning, we started to Sonakhali ferry ghat. On the way, we had to cross the Matla River. As the damaged Canning bridge on Matla river was under construction so traffic jam was there and we had to wait for half an hour. We finally reached to sonakhali ferry ghat on 11:30 am.
The most beautiful launch M.V. Lafiesta was booked for us. Our launch departed from Sonakhali at 12’o clock. Now actual thrill begins. Let discuss something about Sundarbans.
The Sundarbans a UNESCO World Heritage Site is located at the Southeastern tip of the 24 Paraganas district about 110 km from Kolkata. It got its name from one of the mangrove plants known as Sundari (Heritiera Minor). Sundarbans are a part of the world’s largest delta, formed by the mighty rivers Ganga, Brahmaputra and Meghna. Situated on the lower end of Gangetic West Bengal, the Sundarbans is crisscrossed by hundreds of creeks and tributaries. It is one of the most attractive and alluring places remaining on earth, a truly undiscovered paradise. The Sundarbans is the largest single block of tidal, halophytic mangrove forests in the world. The name can be literally translated as a beautiful jungle. The name may have been derived from the Sundari trees that are found in the Sundarbans. It spans a vast area covering 4264 sq. km in India alone. It is the largest Tiger Reserve and National Park.
Apart from being a unique largest mangrove eco-system of the world, the Sundarbans has the world’s largest deltaic mangrove forests and is also home to one of India’s most iconic wildlife species – the Royal Bengal Tiger. It is also the world’s largest estuarine forest crisscrossed by hundreds of creeks and tributaries, intersected by a network of tidal waterways, small islands of salt-tolerant mangrove forests and mudflats. The interconnected network of waterways makes almost every nook and corner of the forest accessible by boats or launches making it one of the most attractive and alluring places on earth and an undiscovered paradise. The Sundarbans also serves as a crucial protective barrier for the inhabitants in and around Kolkata against the floods that result from the cyclones which are a regular occurrence. Sundarbans have also been enlisted amongst the finalists in the New 7 Wonders of Nature.
The history of this area can be traced back to 200-300 AD. A ruin of city built by Chand Sadagar has been found in the baghmara forest block. During the Mughal period, the Mughal kings leased the forest of Sundarbans to nearby residents.
As we board the Sundarbans launch and head towards our first destination, Gosaba, the windy Matla River and the green vegetation upon its delta has taken our heart away from the din and bustle of the city life. We reached the Gosaba at 1 pm. There are two famous bungalows named Beacon bungalow and Hamilton bungalow.
This is the Beacon Bungalow at where Rabindranath Tagore stayed during his 7 days visit at Sundarban in December 1932. The house was built especially for him by Sir Daniel Hamilton, the Scottish shipping magnate who founded the settlement. He envisaged Gosaba as an agricultural co-operative and Tagore was influenced by his ideas. After that, we went to visit Hamilton Bungalow. The Bungalow was locked so it was not possible for us to know anything about this but I was interested to know who about Mr Hamilton. So i asked our tour guide. According to him—In 1903 Daniel Hamilton bought 10,000 acres of land from the government. These acres were a group of islands at the mouth of the Ganges, part of the Sundarban delta. Gosaba is one of the main deltaic islands in the region. He chose Gosaba as the platform to experiment his ideas of rural reconstruction by establishing the school, co-operative bank, desalinization plant, rice mill, the religious council where peasants would co-operate and work together without exploiting one another and live freely. In his estate, there were no untouchables, moneylenders, middleman who would manipulate the peasants. In 1918 he started a Consumers’ Cooperative Society. In 1919 he set up a central model farm to experiment with paddy, vegetables and fruits. A Cooperative Paddy Sales Society was established in 1923. In 1924 he established the Gosaba Central Cooperative Bank and in 1927 the Jamini Rice Mill. In 1934 he started the Rural Reconstruction Institute. He even issued his own currency signed by him and with a promise to pay a dividend of 100% in land reclaimed, tanks excavated, housing built and so on. The economy was run as a small co-operative society in which work and reward were linked. Hamilton and Tagore exchanged letters at length on ideas of rural improvement.
The condition of the medical dispensary, Hamilton and Bacon Bungalow are today left in a pitiable condition. His legacy and contribution to Gosaba are now gathering dust in the damp and leaky chambers of the Hamilton Bungalow in Gosaba. The legend of this great man shall not be left untold. Every year on 25th December people of Gosaba recall him by celebrating his birth and death anniversary.
After visiting these Bungalows we were hungry so we took our lunch. We finished our lunch on the deck with spectacular jungle views, occasional views of fishing boats, and swampy river banks. Jungle views were not intimidating so far. Since we are going against high tides, our boat speed was slowed. About 5 pm we reached Pakhiralaya spot. The whole day journey to reach the jungle resort island made us tired. We are expecting lots of pakhi (birds) would on site. During this Journey, we spotted different types of kingfisher, black cormorants, pond heron, Brahmani eagles and above all getting introduced to the lovely mangroves, with surreal creatures like mudskipper fish, fiddler crabs etc. Inspire a hanging and almost broken stairs from jetty ghat welcomed us there. Cemented stairs from jetty also tilted onside. You need to have a great balancing power to reach the bank while using this jetty ghat. The first day of this tour was ended with the heartwarming Folk performance(Jhumur Dance) by the local people. We had also joined them to dance. After the performance, we took our dinner and went to the launch. We had a plan to stay in the launch at night to enjoy the beauty of nature…. the moonlight mingles in the river….the sooting tempo of river’s roar…..the waves keeping a rhythmic beat as they crash against the shore……..the humming of cricket……the whistle of cold wind…..created a heavenly atmosphere. Though I’m not a protagonist of nature still it seems to me Nature is the conductor waving her baton so effortlessly…blending the sounds together creating a musical symphony.
08/12/2018
Today I was compelled to wake up at 6 o’clock because Rudra was calling me to see the scenic beauty of the sunrise. After taking our breakfast we were ready for Sunderban delta Safari through the boat guided by our Govt tourist Guide at Sajnekhali Reserve. Our thrilling boat safari had started through various rivers, islands & creeks covering Pirkhali, SarakKhali, Gazikhali, Deul Varani, Banbib Varani etc. On the river bank near the jungle, we observed board indicated name Pirkhali, the guide informed we are now leaving mainstream of vidya river and take left side tributary to reach Sudhanyakhali. Now real thrill has been started. Here jungles on both sides come close to our boats. Rivers is not wide here. We see many types of mangroves on both sides. Notably, Sundari, Goran all covered both river banks. I was standing on front deck holding binocular trying to look into the deep forest to see Royal Bengal Tiger. In Sunderbans, there is a popular saying, you may be looking for tiger on the river bank or in the jungle, but Dakhin Roy (tiger) is watching you from deep jungle. All are anxiously waiting for some darshan of wild animal either in jungle or river bank or in the river. All of a sudden, our team manager Akash silently pointed a swampy land see through the creek. Yes, we observed a big crocodile (about 2-3 meter long) taking rest in sunlight on the bank. Our boat stopped the engine and went close to the creek. Yes, I could see the giant crocodile taking a sunbath on the riverbank. We stopped sometime there. On the way, we saw deer and wild vulture. But we could not find any trace of Royal Bengal tiger.
We reached Netidhopani at 11:00 am. Netidhopani has a tiger watchtower and a temple that is approximately 400 years old. This camp is that historical place where NETA(Netidhopani) used to work as a washer-woman and washed the clothes of Gods and goddesses and the ghat used by her was located here. Being a part of the core area of Sunderbans is an excellent site where one can find the pleasure of spotting the Royal Bengal Tiger. With a beautiful cement walk paved around, this Watch Tower has dense forest spots which may satisfy one’s trail to find the most royal creature. Also, linked to a popular Hindu mythology story of Behula-Lakhinder, many may find it interesting to spot the doorway (stairs to heaven) which the famous Netidhopani used to lead Behula to Heavens.
The worship of Banbibi known as the saviour of forest and is worshipped by the Baulis(Wood Cutter) and Maules(Honey Collector) and fishermen prior to entering the forest in the hope that she will protect the forest goers from attack by the tiger. The legend of Banbibi and the tiger is intimately associated with the lifestyle, social, cultural and religious beliefs of the people.
After visiting this camp we took our meal. Our next visiting spot was Do Banki Camp. This is a very popular tourist spot in the deep jungle. The boat left us on jetty connecting to the forest office on the land. Both side covered with an iron mesh as this is located just deep inside the forest. The 896-meter canopy walk at Do Banki gives an opportunity to view wildlife from a netted enclosure. After disembarking at the jetty, we went to watch tower. From here you can have a spectacular view of Sunderban deep forest. From the watch tower, we took an elevated path covered with iron mesh. We could see the footsteps of many wild animals roaming near the path. Someone tells we may see a tiger in this area coming for water in the morning or in the evening time. Then suddenly we saw a big deer coming out of one side of the jungle and quickly vanish in another side. That was really an awesome experience to see animal are roaming in deep jungle and we are inside a case to watch their lives.
After this thrilling Sundarbans national park safari, we will reach at Pakhiralaya Village for marketing. We all bought a few things as a memory of this trip. After shopping, we went to Pakhiralay hotel. In the evening Campfire was built and roasted chicken was also there. sitting around the campfire we were eating the roasted chicken. A large music system was arranged by tour manager Akash to dance. At first we four started to dance with the beat of the music. After that, all the members joined with us to dance. At night we took our dinner and went back to the cruise.
09/12/2018
Today is the last day in Sundarban, we woke up with a disappointment in our heart. The disappointment was mostly because of leaving nature and going back to the same old boring life. We started a bit early today at around 7:00 AM. Our plan for the day was the boat safari to visit the interiors of the forest. So it was the exploring time. It seems that there was no clear way for boating. our small boat was entering the interior of the forest by removing the branches of mangrove trees. During the safari, we watched so many unknown birds. We were discussing that we have a chance to see the Tiger, but the boatman laughed and said that to see the Tiger we have to go dense of the forest which is not allowed. hearing this we all felt the sigh of disappointment. But still it was a thrilling experince.
After the boat safari our we were a little bit crazy and as we four friends were there so our craziness was more. our eyes were so much satisfied by watching the natural beauty of Sundarbans. The moment seems to flow like a molten sapphire and there’s deep blue silence,Neither there is earth below, nor sky above, The rustling branches, leaves are saying that only you are here, Only me, my breath and my heartbeat, Such deepness, such loneliness and me…only me, It all makes me believe in my existence.
After that we headed towards Sajnekhali. We noticed a lot of tourists was scanning through according to their own pace, but we were mostly being interested in exploring various canals we rushed through it. We also noticed that, most boats were like rushing towards the destination, but Akash Da set the speed of our one to firm so that we can explore nature at our own pace. We reached there at 12 pm. Our guide obtained a pass for all members from here. Before venturing into the jungle, we have to take a pass from forest department here. Our boat anchored in a protected jetty ghat. Nobody lives on this island outside this protected area except wild beasts. Inside the forest office, we have seen the Mangrove Interpretation center. Crocodile pond, Bonobibi temple, and wild lizards pond. Mangrove Interpretation center is the most popular among all watchtowers because of its proximity to most of the resorts in the Sundarban area. This watchtower provides one with the opportunity to view wildlife from close quarters. The most sought after sights by a bird watcher are seven colourful species of the Kingfisher, White Bellied Sea Eagle, Plovers, Lap-Wings, Curfews, Whimbrel, Sandpipers and the occasional Pelican. The West Bengal Tourism Department Corporation Tourist lodge is also situated at Sajnekhali. After 30 minutes stay at Sajnekhali Island , we boarded on the boat for next spot Sudhanyakhali.
Before reaching Sudhanyakhali we took our lunch. As we were a little bit tired so some were taking a short nap. Standing at Sajnekhali ferry ghat, we could see a distant view of Pakhiralaya. Boat driver told us that sometime tigers swim this river to reach the other side of villages. Now we are sailing along the Vidya Rivers. Both sides of the river are covered with dense forest. We could see different types of mangroves on the left bank. Our boat is keeping 20 ft distance from the border line of deep jungle. We now can see many infamous creeks entering into the deep forest. Entry paths of those creeks are covered with nets so that fishing boats cannot enter into the deep jungle for crabs and honey. If lucks favours, we can see the glimpse of tigers at the swampy river bank. We reached Sudhanyakhali after 1 hour of boating. We observed an old ship anchored in this place, it may be a victim of infamous Aila storm that ravaged Sunderban delta a few years back. There is also a watch tower. From the watchtower we observed a panoramic view of mangroves all around , narrow stretches of creeks, and deep forests. In this place, Forrest office nicely presented various mangroves plantation with proper labeling. I especially did not want to leave this place because this place was our last light of hope to see “Bagh Mama”. We watched one monitor lizard there. After spending some time we started for Sonakhali at 3pm.
It took us around 1.5 hours to reach Sonakhali and even though our acquaintance was short, we had developed a strong bond among ourselves mostly due to the same wavelength of our love for nature and wildlife. Even though I personally prefer Himalaya, Hill Stations to be specific anyday over Forest, but this first trip to Wildlife gave me enough motivation to explore this other part of Nature. Within the next few minutes, we started towards our same old boring life, we promised Akash Da to keep in touch and back again!!
We had packed our luggage and “Bagh Mama”….ha ha… may be the next time. The mother nature also knows that the picture perfect beauty of the Sundarbans amazed us but she did not allow us to the see the so called dakkhin Roy/Bagh Mama aka Royal Bengal Tiger because she knows that this is the only way to make us visit this wild life again. We reached Sealdah station at 7:30 pm. We four friends bade goodbye to each other and headed towards home. In spite of watching such pristine beauty and wildlife of Sundarban I have to say again EAST AND WEST, MY HOME IS THE BEST.
If you have eagerness in your heart, it means you are alive, If your eyes are filled with dreams, it means you are alive. Learn to be free like the wind, Learn to flow freely like the river, Embrace every moment with open arms, See a new horizon every time with your eyes, If you carry surprise in your eyes, it means you are alive, If you have eagerness in your heart, it means you are alive…
